Recipe: Chili, Pumpkin Seed & Cedar Smoked Bluefish

Bluefish Recipe

My Bluefish catch ready to be filleted with ingredients nearby

One of my favorite things to do growing up in Brooklyn was to go fishing in Jamaica Bay. My parents, having grown up in a fishing village, saw it as a way to keep me busy and a way to bring home some food to last us for a week or two. My family did not believe in the “catch and release” concept, unless you count the numerous undersize Striped Bass we let go in the 80s. Yes, I ate the fish we caught and I still have all 10 toes and have grown used to my webbed feet.

The fish here was a lot different than Istra so my family had to adapt. There were no Sardines, Branzino, Cuttlefish or Scorpion fish. Instead we had Porgy, Blackfish, Flounder and Bluefish. Out of all of these fish Bluefish was the one my family gravitated towards. Its flesh reminded them of the oily sardines and mackerel they grew up on and reacted the same way to cooking. On top of that it was one hell of a fish to catch especially when in the 10-18 lb range. Now we only caught one every other time we went out from Canarsie Pier. But once we bought a 17 foot Bayliner we were trolling up and down Jamaica Bay and bagging them like no tomorrow and giving them out to our family every weekend.

It was always a rite of passage to catch the first one of each season, usually around mid May. In the past three years I have re-ignited that rite and caught one each year surf fishing. This year I figured I would beat the chase and get on a boat. So on May 1st, the one year anniversary of my quitting smoking after 23 years, I decided the celebrate by heading out of Sheepshead Bay. I was reliving the tradition my dad taught me feeling the sea wind in my hair as we headed out to Breezy Point. Ahead of us a swarm of seagulls right over a slew of Bunker with Bluefish underneath for sure. And just like when he first took me out there when I was 8 years old I caught my first Bluefish of the season. A nice 13 lb one hitting the same jig I used 30 years ago, thanks Dad for the fish.

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Brunch: It’s for dinner tonight!

Grilled Mushroom Polenta topped with Tomato Sauce and a Poached Egg... it's a winner!

I have been experimenting with a few recipes lately for a future food venture with some friends. Sometimes I just don’t like cooking first thing in the morning. Especially if it’s the night after you are having a send off for your best friend’s move to the west coast and you thought it was a good idea to drink a bunch of Hawaiian Punches at Winnie’s.  Sidenote: Don’t order the Cookie Monster at Winnie’s. That would explain why I decided to test out one of the Brunch recipes at 7:30pm. So here it is… Grilled Mushroom Polenta with Basil Tomato Sauce topped with a Poached Egg sprinkled with Black Sea Salt. How did it go over? Excellent… definitely a little tweaking but this is gonna go on our menu. Stay tuned for some of the recipes…

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Spots: Speedy Romeo

A few months ago Erin and I went to check out a new place in our hood. It was a week after the place had first opened on a Friday night after 8pm. We knew we were going to be screwed to get a table so we just accepted the fact that we would be drinking alot before dinner. We went in, they tell us it would be about an hour and we scurried to the bar. While at the bar we met a guy named Justin talking about his new place he was opening in the hood. We proceeded to have drinks and we had a great time as he went into passionate detail about his new place, Speedy Romeo. He sounded so excited about it that we couldn’t wait til it opened. It almost sounded too good to be true.

Weeks later we see an episode of Chopped and there is Justin Bazdarich in the thick of competition. Everything he was making looked really good and I figured this will bode well for his new place he told us about opening. He almost won that episode with some very to the point flavors. He also spoke some more about Speedy Romeo, shit I almost forgot the name by then, and it got us interested again. I did a little research and started to follow all the buzz about this place. I told Erin as soon as they open we were in there. One week after opening we decided to take my mom and dad there to check it out… and were we ever so happy we did.

As you get to the corner of Greene and Classon in Clinton Hill you will notice this old facade of an auto parts store with a “liquors” sign on the corner. Yup, you are at the right place. As you walk in there is a very nice and warm feeling from the decor. Open kitchen and bar to the right and seating on the left. It’s a perfect and cozy layout. It was a Friday night and it was really busy but the staff took care of us right off the bat very well. They had a table for us within 15 minutes. I do suggest though that if you are coming on a Friday or Saturday night get there by 7:30.

The Speedy Romeo pie... a must have

My mom, dad, Erin and myself sat down and made a selection of drinks from their varied beer and wine list – The list is nice and a well rounded compliment to the menu. We then decided to go with some appetizers, a pizza and our main entree. The first pizza we ordered was their house special Saint Louie. This is a great example of what this place is all about. Midwest meets Italy with a slap of new Brooklyn thrown in for good measure. This brick oven pie had Provel (a type of mixed cheese from the Mid West), Italian Sausage, Pepperoni and the best pickled chilies (btw they give you these on the table to put on everything… my dad and I couldn’t stop eating them). The creamy cheese with the sausage and amazing spicy chilies gave it this perfect blend of tart, spicy and creamy that I wish every one of my meals started off with.

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Recipe: Cioppino

hearty fish stew ingredients

All the ingredients getting ready for their trip to the Dutch oven

When Erin and I first started dating she told me about how she would love if we could cook something together one night. I’ll be honest, I wasn’t too into the idea at first. I tend to be a kitchen Nazi and like things done my way or you aint eating, I’m slowly working on overcoming that. But being that I wanted to make her happy, and we were still in that impressionistic phase, I said “Sure, lets give it a try, what do you have in mind”, with my most reassuring voice. At that point she proceeds to pull out this small pink leather cookbook that her mom had put together for her when Erin moved to NYC and says “Let’s take a look in here!”

I was in awe when I opened it. It was a collection of recipes her mom had perfected and written by hand into the pink lined note book. First off I was impressed, the penmanship was out of control, not like my mom’s scribble (we’ll leave that for another time). Second, there were so many different recipes that sounded so good and you can tell they were tried and tested. As we were flipping through it one recipe popped out right away… Cioppino. I looked over at Erin and I just let her know “We are gonna rock through this recipe together tomorrow afternoon!” with the excitement of a fat kid in a candy store. Erin seemed just as excited telling me it was one of her favorite dishes, as it is mine. Just then I realized maybe this wasn’t gonna be so bad after all.

The dish originates in San Francisco, it’s beginnings attributed to Istrian & Venetian fisherman who worked the SF Bay and would “chip in” their random scraps of seafood they couldn’t sell at the end of their long days. They took these scraps and would make a spicy tomato based stew that was reminiscent of Istrian & Northern Italian seafood brodetto. Side Note: The most authentic Cioppino is served in SF at Istrian run Tadich Grill, yeah my people are all over this dish. This of course is a match made in heaven for me. Fresh fish, shell fish, spicy broth with just enough of a brine to remind you that this is what the ocean should taste like.

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Spots: SOCO

Soco Fusion Southern Food Brooklyn

Whenever the word “fusion” is used in cuisine its a bit of a turn off to me. Face facts people, all food is fusion by definition of the word. So when a place opens up and say they do a fusion of this and that I really am not in the mood to swing by. Well SOCO changed my mind on that recently…maybe I need to rethink my stance on fusion.

SOCO is a new Southern fusion restaurant/bar that has opened up on Myrtle Avenue on the Fort Greene/Clinton Hill border in the past few months. I had a few friends that had gone and their reviews were up and down. So this past Saturday Erin & I figured “let’s take a walk and check it out”. To be honest, one of our favorite places was closed and we wandered down a bit farther on Myrtle. SOCO was open so we decided to drop in.

We got there between shifts and the super friendly staff said we could wait at the bar, have a drink and we should be seated in a half hour. Who am I to refuse a drink on Saturday afternoon. From first impressions the interior is really nice and modern. You can see alot of ironwork that seems be be influenced by the Brooklyn Bridge, so right off the bat I am sold. We sit down, are given a cocktail menu and told about the specials. Again, good staff make a good place even better. The cocktail menu seemed very interesting and had a nice list of signature cocktails that start to give you a hint how they like to mix and match influences on their dishes. Everything seemed to have classic Southern roots with Asian or European hints intertwined into each cocktail. Instead of a signature cocktail we went with a Moscow Mule & a Dark N’ Stormy, our two go to drinks. They made the drinks very nicely with some muddled ginger that took it up a tiny notch but wasn’t pretentious.

As we finished our drinks we were seated at our table in the back. One thing I liked was that there were multiple types of seating here. Big tables, small tables, stools…etc. This is always a selling point for me to come back for different occasions. Looking over the menu again we saw the different types of fusion they were doing with Southern cuisine and it seemed pretty subtle and clean. We ordered our dishes and couldn’t wait to see what was in store.

Crawfish Dumplings

Crawfish Dumplings with Green Curry Sauce

For appetizers I went with the Crawfish Dumpling and Erin went with the Mac N’ Cheese. Erin tells me that you can tell how good a place is based on their Mac N’ Cheese, she has a great point here. The Crawfish Dumplings with Green Curry sauce were amazing and light. The dumpling wrapper was made from a piece of blanched spinach, rather than dough, and made them such a  light appetizer. The sauce was perfectly seasoned and had just the right amount of ginger to cut through the coconut milk. This is a very inventive appetizer I will order again.

Mac N Cheese from Soco

Mac N' Cheese in a skillet... always a winner

Erin tried to test out her Mac N’ Cheese theory as an appetizer. This was a pretty good Mac N’ Cheese, probably like a 9 out of 10. I wouldn’t go crazy about it but they used the right noodles, a good cheese mix and it was crispy on the edges. I would go back to this but wouldn’t write home about it. She said her theory was write and that this place was a good place to eat at, I was still a little cautious. So onto our main dishes.

Buttermilk Friend Chicken & Red Velvet waffle

Buttermilk Friend Chicken & Red Velvet Waffle

When I saw this on the menu I couldn’t refuse the Buttermilk Fried Chicken & Red Velvet Waffle. I mean c’mon that is just asking to be ordered… for the waffle alone. Just like all the other plates it looked very nice, and that is something that stood out about every dish we saw coming from the kitchen, so I just dug into it. I think because we came right as dinner service started the fryer wasn’t on for long enough because the tasty batter did not stick to the chicken. And its a shame because the chicken itself was really juicy and the batter was tasty. but because it wasn’t adhering I had to pick it up off my plate. But man, I did love the taste of that batter. Now onto the waffle… this was really, really good. Its a nice hybrid of a red velvet cake and a warm waffle… something I just love with fried chicken. I want to go back and try this a little later in dinner service to see if its better…I have a feeling it will be.

Lobster, Shrimp & Creamy Grits

Lobster, Shrimp & Creamy Grits

Erin went with something we found really interesting on the menu, the Lobster, Shrimp & Creamy Grits. This was a winner in both our books. First off its a full lobster tail cooked perfectly. Second the shrimp and sauce is nice and spicy but not over powering. And lastly the grits are some of the creamiest we have ever had. I mean these were so buttery and a perfect compliment to the bright seafood. I tend to think of myself as a Shrimp & Grits expert, I make it a few times a year, and this was right up there with my favorites I have had in the South. This was such a great, well rounded dish and a perfect example about the fusion they are doing here which gets two thumbs up from us.

Overall I am very excited about this place opening up in our neighborhood. The atmosphere and decor are perfect for the neighborhood, & a great reflection of Brooklyn. The staff is very warm, friendly and knowledgeable. And lastly, and most importantly, the food was really good & interesting. It did have a few subtle flaws but I think that had more to do when we came in the service. We will be hitting this place for brunch as well is later in the dinner service very soon.

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Recipe: Cast Iron Jerk Chicken

Jerk Chicken Recipe

Colorful ingredients of jerk chicken

One of my favorite Brooklyn traditions is to go to the East Indian Day parade with my friend Josh Fruhlinger. We do this every year without fail. We meet up around 11am, make sure we don’t have too much money in our pockets (too much cash leads to over eating), and head out to the food carts. It’s our one time of the year to get what we call “the real deal” and to experience the Caribbean influence on our Brooklyn neighborhoods in it’s full glory. If you live in Brooklyn you have to do this at least once for the shear visual craziness… trust me.

The Caribbean influence in Brooklyn is undeniable, from Canarsie to Prospect Heights, the Caribbean people have been such a strong part of the Brooklyn identity for the past 30 plus years. The people, music, culture and cuisine has seeped it’s way into every neighborhood of Brooklyn and livened them up. I remember having my first roti when I was 12 years old somewhere off of Eastern Parkway and falling in love immediately with the richness of the goat curry wrapped in a hand made flat bread. This was a cuisine I never experienced at home and was hooked from the start. But the one part of the Caribbean cuisine that back then, and every time I go to the parade, I yearn for is Jerk Chicken. A really good homemade Jerk Chicken has no other rivals as far as I am concerned. You can’t even step to it… period. The spice, aroma, char and juiciness is a perfect balance of island style and spirit in one simple dish. Each bite grows more and more complex and makes you feel like you are sitting on the beach even in the coldest North East winter.

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Recipe: Country Baked Eggs

Drunken Brooklyn Brunch

Sunday mornings, just like most people in Brooklyn, I wake up a bit hazy from the partying the night before. Clothes are scattered through out the house, Erin is dead asleep, somehow there is an empty bag of chips on the coffee table and the sheets are not on the right way at all. Yeah, we had a good night last night but we need food badly…and my head is spinning like a wooden merry-go-round. So I, and many of you, have that classic Sunday hangover dilemma.. “Do I order in or do I just brave the kitchen and cook myself?”

I tend to go with the later. I just force myself to drink down a Gatorade, take a few Advil, play some old Massive Attack, and get to work in the kitchen. Now this is not to say that I get all El Bulli up in this piece and cook up a dehydrated egg with a bottarga foam over a hash of purple potatoes & truffles, although that sorta sounds good right now. I look in my fridge and try to come up with something that I wont have to use too many pots, can just throw together and will satisfy me as well as give me some nutrition. This particular Sunday my brain was mush and I felt like I was doing calculus computations looking into my fridge and then all of a sudden… solution… Country Style Baked Eggs.

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